The following are questions we have been asked.The answers that follow are a mixture of our opinion, extensive research and 28 years of experience successfully keeping toads. We have infused each answer with a bit of humor and a few grains of common sense. This is intended to educate and hopefully, in some cases provide food for thought where appropriate. As stated on our home page, we are not veterinarians and we are not degreed herpetologists or zoologists.If you have a question not covered here or regarding a question here, please see the contact page.

Q: Will a Rococo eat dog food?

Q: In a place as big as the internet, why can't I seem to find a care sheet on Rococo toads?

Q: Should I hand feed my toads?

Q: What is the best substrait to use in a toad tank?

Q: Are Rococo toads good first time pet toads?

Q: The pet store told me my Rococo will eat mice. Is this true?

Q: What is the best water for my toad?

Q: What is "power feeding"?

Q: Should I find a vet for my toad?

Q: My Rococos sometimes puff themselves up with a hiss and stand in a stiff, unnatural manner. What's wrong with them?

Q: Can you get high on the bufo toxins of Rococo toads?

Q: Which species gets bigger, a Marine (aka Cane) toad or a Rococo?

Q: How big should my Rococo tank be?

Q: Does my Rococo need a basking light?

Q: Should I provide heat for my toads?

Q: What about handling my toads?

Q: Are Rococos intelligent?

Q: What about dusting with calcium supplements?






Q: Will a Rococo eat dog food?
A: Probably. But the question should be, "is it healthy for them to eat dog food?" I don't think so. When would an amphibian in nature eat anything like that? Much less anything in a can or processed dry food? When would a toad eat horse meat? Cow meat? Pork? Give me a break.
Both Canes and Rococos come from South and Central America. They lived in rain forests. How often do you think they encountered a bowl of cat chow?
In my opinion, it is irresponsible and immature to offer or coheres toads to eat dog and cat food. Teasing them by moving something infront of them will usually result in them trying to catch it. They should be fed a normal toad diet and only in extreme emergencies should any substitute food source be offered. I have a perfectly good solution to that, and you can click here to read it.
Yes, I have read on lots of the same sites you've probably found already, that Canes will eat dog food and table scraps. But just because they will eat it doesn't mean they should. Rococos and Canes will basically try to eat almost anything it is said, though it has always been our experience that they don't bother with anything that is not moving. Toads aren't scavengers and I don't agree with feeding them dead stuff, people food, processed food and the like. What's next? Filling their water bowl with soda? Or how about replacing their regular worms with gummie worms? Go get a box of supermarket cat food and read the ingredient list! Scary! I wouldn't even feed that crap to my cat, let alone a Rococo or Cane toad.
These are living creatures, not toys, and should be cared for responsibly. A Cane toad that wanders into somebody's backyard and starts lapping at Fido's bowl simply doesn't realize the contents are not good for him. Its not unlike a child that sees no wrong in eating McDonald's for three meals a day.
Bottom line? Crickets and earthworms are their main diet in captivity, varied with wax worms, butter worms and the occasional little mouse or rat pup, and other assorted insects, NOT Puppy Chow, bird seed or Friskie's Buffet.

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Q: In a place as big as the internet, why can't I seem to find a care sheet on Rococo toads?
A: Good question and one I've often pondered. Doing a search will normally result in getting only a handful of results that actually say anything about Rococos. There is all this miscellaneous stuff that comes up and lots of weird stuff (written like the author was drugged, drunk or both when it was written), music bands, cafes, and a handful of reptile dealers sites come up mentioning Rococos for sale. As for a site devoted to them....not that I've found. It may be that so little is really known about keeping them in captivity that nobody wants to be responsible for committing anything to print (hence our disclaimers).
So the general rule is, follow the advice for caring for Bufo Marinus (Cane toads). Below are a few fact sheets, but they are not care sheets. Its hard to find a care sheet. The fact sheets are general information about them living in the wild.

http://www.amonline.net.au/factsheets/canetoad.htm

http://www.dierinbeeld.nl/animal_files/reptiles_amphibians/marine_toad/

http://www.faunaimportuk.com/caresheets/bufotoadcaresheet.htm

And don't forget our own Rococo Toad Photo Gallery here on toadilytoads.com

video screen capture of Jabba the Rococo Toad

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Q: Should I hand feed my toads?
A: If they take from your hands, sure, why not? I hear arguments from people who keep frogs and toads that one should never get them used to hand feeding or else they will depend on it and could not be returned to the wild if need be. First off, you should NEVER set a Cane or Rococo loose in the wild unless you live someplace where they are NATIVE to that area. Secondly, I had a case of a Bufo Americanus (Fleegle), who was hand fed and when she got sick, I had to return her to the outdoors so she could hibernate. She came back to me healthy and fat. She obviously didn't loose the inborn ability to find and eat food outside. I strongly doubt any Rococo would have a problem either and if he did, he's sicker than you think. I will not open the debate of "pet keepers" vs. "herp hobbyists" here, but there is a difference in the mentality of the two. The pet keeper is one who loves their pet and makes him wear little hats, whereas the herpetological hobbyist is one who keeps specimens as a more scientific study and does not handle them past what is absolutely necessary. Speaking as a bit of both, I believe hand feeding is fine so long as the toad doesn't mind. If hand feeding causes fear or stress, then do not do it.
I hand fed most of my toads the same day they came home. Toads tend to be laid back and since eating is their #1 priority in life, I like for them to make the connection early on that they should associate me with being fed. Mine all know when they see me they will be given food and love!
Some toads can be shy and afraid. If they don't take from your hand, don't try to force them. Its been my experience that usually, females will feed from your hand faster than a male will at first. I've also noted that the bigger the toad, the more likely it is to not be so afraid and to eat from your hand right away. Tiny toads, like our now deceased Southern toads (bufo terrestris), run from the hand and hide. The intermediate step might be to feed from a string, but some really shy toads won't even go for that.
Before hand feeding, however, be sure your hands are free from lotions, soap residue or anything else. Rinse them for a solid minute or so under warm water and then handle.

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Q: What is the best substrait to use in a toad tank?
A: Dirt. Why? Its safe, its cheap and toads love it. If you have ever watched any toad feed (and most frogs, too for that matter), you know that they devour not only the insect or worm, but also the substrait. This is potentially dangerous. Toads can and do die of intestinal impactions in nature as well as in the tank. Since we keep them as pets, we try to keep them happy and healthy and free from the dangers they would deal with outdoors. Otherwise, we'd leave them outside, right?
Reptile substrait is great for reptiles, but might not be good for amphibians. Cedar is an absolute NO. Wood shavings and other dry substrait is not acceptable either. Frog moss is messy and often swallowed, regardless of how pretty it is. Paper towels with no prints or dyes in them can be used for temporary substrait, but what toad would be happy living in it all the time? (If you use toweling, be sure its moistened). Furthermore, studies show that most paper toweling contains formaldyhide and for that possibility alone is not recommended. Fish gravel is harsh and unappealing to a toad and depending on the size of the toad and the size of the gravel, it might be swallowed and not passed. Leaves are fine for overhead cover, but they like to burrow their butt into something soft, such as what? You got it. Dirt.
Amphibians breathe through their skin far more than reptiles and I have found them to be much more sensitive. Plain soil that is NOT treated in any way is best. Choose an organic soil with no plant food or fertilizers. If swallowed, it tends to pass easily. Also, it feels so nice and cool to borrow into. Depending on the particular species you are keeping, the dirt might need a spray bottle misting everyday or so. In the case of Rococos, do keep their soil moist. *
Fake plants look nice and can be washed. A hide box or toad house of some sort is a toad's favorite hang out. Our Rococos live in their rock cave all the time. If toads could talk, they'd ask for dirt.

*Recently, Toadily Toads guest toad, Big Fred was added to the site. He lives in something called EcoEarth, which also is sold as "Bed a Beast" by another company. I hear it is peat made from ground coconut shells and it is 100% safe for amphibians. We have no experience with this product but Big Fred's human gives it high praise. This might be a suitable alternative but without first hand experience, we cannot endorse it at this time. We will update this portion of the answer should we ever try it. Of course, there is also an old rule that if something isn't broken, don't fix it. If you have your animals in this substrait and its working well for you, then switching to dirt is probably not necessary. I would imagine however, that dirt is cheaper and depending on your budget and how often you change substrait, you might need to consider the cost of anything but dirt.

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Q: Are Rococo toads good first time pet toads?
A: It is my opinion that toads in general make great introductory pet herps. Rococos are very good choices because they are hardy and have few requirements. They tend to be laid back and they are good eaters. Overall, I consider them to be excellent starter toads, along with Cane toads and American toads. In contrast, Southern toads, (bufo terrestris) tend to be nervous and hide alot and do not seem to enjoy humans. Before getting any toad, be sure to learn as much as you can first. It will make it easier regardless.

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Q: The pet store told me my Rococo will eat mice. Is this true?
A: Yes. Large toads and frogs can accept pinkie mice (newborn) and even little white ones called fuzzies and hoppers. A large bufo americanus like our own Woodstock could accept pinkies. We have never given Woodstock a pinkie, though.
Very little data is available about proper toad care, specifically for Rococos. Most of the information I have found is sketchy at best. There seems to be no definitive, authoritative resource available on care for this specific species. Most of what I've found on the internet are brief "fact sheets" and not actually "how to" care sheets. Even for Bufo Marinus, (Cane toads), there tends to be more pages that are posted by zoos or scientific entities regarding their current status and to some extent a bit of information on their habits. A few people have posted their own care sheets but they are not easy to find. It seems you will click alot of links that will tell you the page is not found.
With this in mind, I believe we must take our cues from what we do know about general toad care and where these toads originally hail from. Just as I pointed out that these toads do not eat dog and cat food in nature, I also point out that though they will eat rodents and other small animals, they have to catch them first! How often would a Rococo in nature happen upon a nest of squirming pinkie mice? He'd be pretty damn lucky, I'd imagine.
In fact, one of the reasons the Cane toad project failed was because even though a Cane toad CAN eat the cane beetles that it was sent to Australia and Hawaii to eradicate, Canes couldn't catch them! Yes, any toad is lightening quick in catching a little white mouse that was bought from your pet store, but keep in mind, they are in a tank. The mouse might run away, but not far and eventually, the toad will catch the mouse, even if it must exhaust it first. Other times, you drop the mouse in and before it gets it bearings to move, the toad lapped it up. Either way, this is not the same condition as in nature. In nature, the mouse isn't a "feeder mouse". It's a real field mouse who spends its life from birth to death trying not to be eaten. And in nature, the mouse can run far and fast and keep going, finding an infinite number of hiding places.
I am willing to wager that the Rococo or Cane toad diet in nature consists primarily of insects and worms and that a mouse would be a rare treat once in a while. An unlucky toad might die before he ever catches a mouse! I believe mice should only be fed as an occasional treat. They are much higher in fat than insects normally are. A captive Rococo or any toad for that matter, is not active enough to need a diet of lots mice. (See the GA on power feeding).
Yes, I know there are people who claim to have had Rococos for many years and fed them mice several times a week. Perhaps the individual toad was more active, or, as I look at it, instead of the toad living 5 years, he might have lived longer without being power-fed mice.

Here, Gardilla enjoys a rare mouse treat!

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Q: What is the best water for my toad?
A: Without question, purified drinking water is a better bet for pet toads (and humans) than tap water. It is said that New York City has the world's best tap water. No wonder. It comes from the Ashokan Reservoir which was right down the road from my old home. But from there, it has a lot of traveling to do through dirty old pipes. It is treated by the city with chemicals. Plus, it contains fluoride for your teeth, too! In fact, a few years ago, when bottled drinking water became the in thing to drink, I read that there was a significant rise taking place in cavity incidence because less people were drinking water with fluoride. There is no question that tap water, be it city water or well water, is treated with a lot of stuff, including chlorine. Finally, it has to go through the pipes in the average home. Those pipes might be very old and very rusty or have all sorts of corrosion inside that the water picks up.
Some people report using chemical solutions to condition tap water. The solutions are supposed to remove chlorine and other elements. I knew a man who was highly knowledgeable about fish keeping and he told me that he doesn't even use that stuff for fish. He told me there is no substitute for pure water. Healthy fish that live long are the result of many factors, but the water is the main one.
When it comes to frogs and toads, the delicate slime layer of the animal's skin might be compromised by exposure to chemicals. It is my experience that tap water should not be used.
I find it ironic that I've encountered frog and toad keepers who will buy their pets a $60 hide cave and an expensive misting/humidifier system, and pay high electric bills for heating and lighting, but are not willing to buy some big jugs of pure water for them!

DO NOT USED DISTILLED WATER.
Choose a purified drinking water and try to stay with that one brand. You don't have to fill their bowls with Perrie or Evian, but water in clear bottles is better than cloudy jugs.

***Remember, toads don't drink. Toads soak in the water and absorb it through their butt to hydrate. This is what they sometimes release on you when you handle them. Its not "pee" per se. Its their water store. Whenever our toads release water, I am sure to place them in their newly cleaned water bowl to refill. ****


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Q: What is "power feeding"?
A: Power feeding is something you will run across in other herp circles and normally doesn't get seen in the frog or toad community. It is especially known among keepers of big snakes. People feed the animals too much in an effort to make them get bigger faster. I've learned from snake keepers that you can damage a snake's liver and other organs by doing this. Mice and other foods are fatty and a captive snake doesn't need all that extra food.
We know that all toads are fat by nature. They are supposed to be. That's what toads are. However, with Cane toads and Rococos, there is more of a desire to have them obtain record breaking size. Thus, you will hear about power feeding them.
Your toads should be fat, yes. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. A fat toad with a good appetite is a healthy animal. Almost in every case, if a toad stops eating and/or becomes thin, it will die. Thinness in frogs is much more prevalent, though there are exceptions. Feed all toads a diet of mostly crickets and earthworms, offering other appropriate insects as well. Wax worms are a favorite. A feeder fish will also be eaten, though you have to be careful. Many of those fish contain bacteria which can infect the toad. Mice should be fed from time to time but not be the main course every night! Young mice and rat pups are a better choice than older mice as they have more nutritional value due to nursing.


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Q: Should I find a vet for my toad?
A: That is a personal decision. The most obvious answer is "yes", however, I don't think its that simple. For one thing, many vets, even those advertising that they see exotic animals, will not see frogs and toads or at best, will admit they "normally don't see frogs". Yet, all too often, these same offices will charge $50 - $150 for an office visit! Its like saying, "Hi, I have no clue how to treat or diagnose you, but come in anyway and I will at least be able to lighten your wallet for you".
You should look for a vet before you actually need one. If you wait until an emergency arises, you might be shocked at how difficult it can be to find a decent vet who is reasonably priced and has experience with frogs and toads. You should interview prospective doctors and find one that you feel comfortable with.


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Q: My Rococos sometimes puff themselves up with a hiss and stand in a stiff, unnatural manner. What's wrong with them?
A: They are performing the age old toad warning ritual. Toads and skunks have something in common, which is that if threatened, first they will take a stance that they believe is threatening and do a little dance and finally shoot the ammunition. Skunks spray their stinky perfume, but toads shoot bufo toxins! DO NOT BOTHER A TOAD IN THIS STANCE! This is his way of telling you that he is threatened and you need to back off. If you ignore the warning, don't blame the toad if you are hit with toxin. Rococos are able to literally shoot the toxin from their glands and you don't want that on your body or in your eyes. If the toad sees you are respecting his language, he will most likely calm down and see you are not a threat. This behavior might not be surprising for a newly acquired toad, however, a toad who's been with you a while will most likely calm down and settle in and you will see that behavior much less (though on occasion is normal). If it is persistent, you might want to reconsider keeping this animal and offer it to a local zoo or give it to a pet store. Our Rococos do this stance every so often, but not beyond normal. What's really funny though, is when they do it to eachother. The stance is basically them hissing, puffing up tight, standing tall on all fours and then leaning off to the side, literally pointing a gland at you. Don't forget, Rococos have glands on their legs, too.

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Q: Can you get high on the bufo toxins of Rococo toads?
A: Frankly, that's disgusting, but no. You will however get sick to your stomach. I've read a few articles about idiots who licked bufo toxins from Canes and/or Rococos and got sicker than you can imagine. The toxin can kill dogs and cats, so what makes you think you could lick it or smoke it? I won't get into my opinions about getting high and drug use, but if you must, do not attempt it with a Rococo toad. Not only is it nasty, disgusting and utterly ignorant, imagine the poor toad who has to be agitated to make this toxin. Rococos will only produce toxin if they feel that they are mortally threatened or else you must squeeze their glands yourself to "milk" them. Even a mildly perturbed toad will not produce much of the stuff. You might see a light glistening on their glands. Rococos are laid back. If you irritate them to the point of making poison, that is absolutely cruel, but in the end, the joke is on you.

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Q: Which species gets bigger, a Marine (aka Cane) toad or a Rococo?
A: Bufo Marinus has been reported to grow as big as Rococos do, however, I've read alot about how they are not growing as large as they once did due to food shortages in their environments. Whether this is true or not, I don't know, however, it is generally known that Rococos (b. paracnemis) are large toads, achieving as much as 8.5 inches in length (for females). Bufo marinus is reported to grow as big as 12" but you'd be hard pressed to find one that big in the wild. Most herp sellers online claim that bufo marinus is only 3 -5" (true of males), where as the rococos are 6 - 8".

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Q: How big should my Rococo tank be?
A: You can use a 30 gallon long for one or possibly two toads, depending on how big they are. Certainly a 30 is fine for one. Our two are in a 40 gallon "breeder" tank, which is a glass aquarium with a lid that slides on the top, rather than gets dropped on top. The glass of a "breeder" tank is thinner than a fish aquarium and this sort of tank is intended for reptiles and amphibians. Always remember to cover 3 sides of the tank with aquarium decorative paper. Any and all amphibians feel safer and more secure with three sides being covered.If your space allows, give them as large a tank as you can accomodate. They are big toads and appreciate alot of space.

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Q: Does my Rococo need a basking light?
A: I've never heard anyone state that it is a requirement for keeping Rococos that they must have a basking lamp or any other type of special light. Basking lamps, specifically, are used for snakes, like Burmese pythons for example, or lizards who must bask in the sun to warm up. I do believe all animals should be given the option of sitting in at least a little bit of natural sunlight if possible. Most toads are nocturnal and are not overly active in sunlight anyway. They avoid it to avoid drying out. However, I sometimes see our Rococos sitting outside their cave where some natural light seeps in, but I'd hardly say they were basking in it. I would suggest that if you don't have access to natural light for at least a short time each day, you might want to provide a few hours of artificial daylight a few times a week just for good measure. Give them the option to decide what they need. Our vet recommends this site's products: http://www.reptileuv.com/

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Q: Should I provide heat for my toads?
A: Yes. Use an under the tank style heating pad on one side of the tank. I always prefer to keep the heat on the side under the water. It warms the water and as water evaporates, it provides a bit of humidity. We use a large pad under the cave that our toads spend 99% of their time in, and they seem to like it, but they also appreciate the heat under the water. Especially in winter. There is an area they can go to where there is no heat, but we've never found them there. So long as you change the water everday like you're supposed to, it shouldn't be a problem. If you go away for more than a day or so, and can't get anyone to check in and provide fresh water, then I would consider unplugging the water side heater so it doesn't evaporate too quickly. Never use heat rocks as they can burn a toad if they malfunction, plus it requires an electrical cord to run into their tank. While some people feel under-the-tank heater can also burn a toad, I've never had a problem with them for either our frogs, toads or snakes. A toad who doesn't want heat will move. We've never had one burn themselves on the glasss, either. Your heat pad simply shouldn't get so hot that it can burn them. If it does, it might be malfunctioning, or it might be too large for the tank.

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Q: What about handling my toads?
A: You can handle Rococos to some extent, which is the extent that they let you! Take your cues from them (see the question about them puffing themselves up). Always handle them with clean hands, being sure you have no residue from soaps, chemicals or hand lotions on your hands. Be sure the toads are not taken out when there is too much activity or it will make them nervous. Our toads enjoy sitting on the bed and hiding under the covers with me. The are obviously relaxed, often falling asleep there. If you look under a toad's mouth, you can see their airsack moving. If it is moving fast, that is a bad sign that the toad is nervous. A normal toad is laid back and their breathing is very slow and even. You must always make their handling experience a good one, or else, do not handle them. Overhandling is never good so don't handle them too much, either.


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Q: Are Rococos intelligent?
A: Yes, extremely intelligent. I'd put them about even with bufo americanus!

One can only wonder what they are discussing!

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Q: What about dusting with calcium supplements?
A: This is an issue of debate, but yes, you should do calcium supplements some of the time. However, I have heard some people say that they were told not to supplement more than one batch of crickets a week with calcium. That is a good question for your vet if you have one. Personally, we dust periodically, but not every batch of crickets to avoid too much of a good thing, which can be unhealthy.


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